Academic Practice with Focus on BA Fashion Design

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29th January 2023
by Anna-nicole Ziesche
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‘APPROPRIATE’ – language is the key – key words

Prior today’s session I read the paper called ‘Learning outcomes and assessment criteria in art and design. What’s the recurring problem?’ by Allan Davies, Independent Consultant. This paper is a critical reflection on the development of learning outcomes, outcome-led learning and assessment criteria in art and design.

Despite working in an academic job for many years I had difficulties to follow the text and language until the author started speaking specifically about art and design education, then it made all more sense to me. The text describes how assessment criteria have been existing for a long time in universities while learning outcomes, a much more recent phenomenon, had to find a way of fitting in.

Getting the language right in learning outcomes is the key as they need to be to an extent generic but also not too generic as they have to remain meaningful. They also need to relate to assessment criteria and vice versa. Allan Davies continues that often specific terms are used in learning outcomes which are difficult for students to understand if they have not been inducted into the language of the discipline.

This confirms that language differs depending on discipline and context. It becomes particularly apparent when foreigners prefer to continue speaking in the foreign language because of the specific terms of the discipline which they have not learned in their mother tongue. 

Looking in particular at the UAL assessment system which has developed 5 assessment criteria – enquiry, knowledge, process, communication and realisation – for the whole of UAL and related learning outcomes which at least in fashion are all consistent across all fashion pathways it seems very refined and coherent. When I have been external examiner for the MA Fashion programme at RCA, I realised that their learning outcomes were far too long-winded and unclear and written by the course leader and one other tutor.

The whole system at RCA in comparison to UAL appeared much less grounded and importantly much less consistent as each programme must have got different learning outcomes and very different languages. The strong sense of aspiration for parity at UAL cannot be the same at RCA.

The key paragraphs that resonated the most with me are the following:

A lack of clarity in the learning outcomes, it seems, does not mean that students are not clear about what they have to do. Indeed, learning outcomes, ambiguous or otherwise, appear to be no substitute for established learner support systems and other frameworks that help students understand what they have to do in order to successfully complete a programme of work.

Briefs and briefings are familiar in art and design along with tutorials, interim crits and feedback forums. It is during these supportive scenarios that art and design students formulate their intentions and actions and come to understand what ‘imagination’, ‘creativity’, ‘risk-taking’, etc, (the very terms regarded as potentially ambiguous) actually mean for them.

I very much agree with the above because a lot of students don’t even know the learning outcomes or don’t try to understand them fully. In my experience the students don’t look at learning outcomes until the particular project is completed and they receive their written feedback and grade alongside the stated learning outcomes. At times the students start comparing the learning outcomes with their grade and physical project outcome but even then, most of the time they focus on the tutors’ written feedback.

On the BA Fashion Womenswear, we have numerous supportive methods in place to ensure that the students understand what they have to do to successfully complete the project. As we primarily teach one-to-one the students get several individual feedback opportunities a week, we do interim crits, we write simplified documents or emails explaining what is expected etc.

Appropriate

Returning to my starting point of the importance of language I just want to briefly look at the word ‘appropriate’. During our Wednesday session we had a brief discussion on the chat about the word ‘appropriate’. One of my peers thought that the word ‘appropriate’ is vague and meaningless which made me laugh because I very much agreed but still use the word frequently.

I remember making consciously the decision about starting to use the word because it constituted to me the only alternative to the terms ‘right’ and ‘wrong’. As I don’t like using the terms ‘right’ and ‘wrong’ in relation to creative practice I was relieved having had found the word ‘appropriate’. However, I would argue that the word might not create the same internal reaction in me as it does to my peer despite having lived in England more than half of my life.

Another example of processing language differently is that I also remember discovering ‘key words’ for writing feedback many years ago when I was involved with writing units, learning outcomes and assessment criteria for adult education with regards to the Qualifications and Credit Framework (QCF) at the Mary Ward Centre. This felt like a relief similar as when I had discovered the word ‘appropriate’.

21st January 2023
by Anna-nicole Ziesche
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2nd PgCert Day 18th of January 2023

Drawing by ANZ ‘Das ist doch kein Kunststück’, around 2003

The title translated literally means ‘That’s not an art piece’ however, the actually meaning is ‘That’s not difficult’.

Read this short case study from Bruce Macfarlane’s 2004 book Teaching

with Integrity: The ethics of higher education practice (Routledge), in which

a fictional lecturer, ‘Stephanie’, receives feedback on her teaching in the form of

student evaluation forms and a peer observation. Consider:

Which aspects of Stephanie’s teaching practice appear to be the most

ripe for development? 

  • Understanding the importance of ‘inclusive teaching’ and that it does not mean ‘spoon feeding’
  • Understanding that repetition is vital in teaching – having explained the assessment process in the handbook is not enough + some students do not understand the language of assessment terminology
  • Continuously re-assessing her way of explaining and asking herself whether this is clear enough to the students
  • Understanding that students’ feedback is an integral part of her teaching job and that she should ask for verbal feedback regularly then she would not need to fear the written feedback as there would not be as many surprises especially as she would have already acted in response to the oral feedback
  • She seems quite bias or prejudge mental and needs training
  • Learning to create more student-led opportunities but explaining clearly why this is an integral part of the students learning at university
  • If something has a controversial tendency – this can be ok as long as the teacher explains clearly to the students, why they utilise it as a teaching-learning method

What could Stephanie do to move past her defensive reaction?

  • Learn not to take students’ feedback personally but to understand that they have a real reason why they do not understand something or have other personal issues why they are so negative towards her
  • Actually, have a different approach/starting point: believing that students want to learn, that they are genuine and not lazy or arrogant etc.
  • Understanding that implementing a more beneficial and enhanced teaching methods according to the feedback will actual often reduce her workload on both short and long term

What, for you, are the most interesting questions this case study raises?

  • Why does the fictional lecturer teach?
  • How do we learn to be a teacher in HE?
  • What is a good and what is a bad teacher?
  • How do we become a teacher and why in the first place?

In a creative discipline a lot of people try to do their creative practice initially, like I did but realise sooner or later that they do not earn any or enough money and therefore, ‘stumble’ into teaching at art colleges.

I have been teaching for more than 19 years in different institutions, I learned a lot from my colleague who used to be my teacher when I was an undergraduate student and I also learned a lot by simply doing it.

  • Is sole teaching considered as lower than teaching and researching at UAL or in general?

At the beginning of the teaching career the own practice is still more important than the teaching job however, the more time passes the more the teaching job takes over. This means that the fictional lecturer in the case study does not necessarily see the teaching as something less respected than her research just that her research is her prime passion.

  • Is it even possible to teach without researching?

Having been in a research fellow position which required a certain amount of teaching and having also been in a sole teaching position and trying to do research at the same time both at UAL made me wonder if this is an impossible task to combine.

Being a mother of two, a teacher and an artist I had to let one thing go and I let my practice go because it didn’t make any money. But not a single day passes without thinking about my art practice. In addition, I constantly feel that I am unable to feed any useful knowledge to my students because I have no time to research or do my practice.

14th January 2023
by Anna-nicole Ziesche
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Reflection on the first day of PgCert Wednesday 11th of January 2023 (Group B2)

Thinking/reflecting or reacting or communicating through drawing – word: ‘wonder’, drawing by ANZ

Endless different teaching & learning styles experienced today:

  • Individual presentations by the students
  • Immediate positive feedback by the teachers to the students after presentations
  • Student-led and teacher-led discussions
  • Continuous encouraged student input in the discussion verbally or through writing in the chat
  • A lot of listening by the teachers to the students demonstrating interest, undivided attention, curiosity, empathy, patience
  • Active learning remotely – students were encouraged to draw.
  • Perhaps a ‘creative, disruptive method’ by encouraging students to access their senses – What are your feet touching? What’s touching your feet?
  • A form of brainstorming on Padlet
  • Utilising different digital platforms: BBCollaborate, Padlet, moodle, blogs
  • Another student-led learning example: a kind of ‘subject voting’ system where students voted their favourite 3 topics and then chose one they wanted to discuss with their peers
  • Thinking/reflecting or reacting or communicating through drawing.
  • Learning to find words through drawing – writing through drawing
  • Sharing and discussing work
  • Teachers being honest, showing their vulnerability and put themselves into the perspective of the students therefore, gaining students’ trust
  • Teachers allowing students to view some of their home environment: pets plus mentioning children in background – being open, giving some insight into their personal life – being human – not just ‘the superior teacher’
  • Q&As
  • Facilitating students’ participation or involvement on many different levels such as the mentioned above examples: student-led group discussions, chat, padlet, shared brainstorming, students’ presentations etc.

Today’s key words that resonated with me personally:

  • Meaningful
  • Discipline of noticing
  • Trust
  • Resistance
  • Sociomateriality
  • Facilitator
  • Silence

What I am taking away from today:

What I am taking away from today seems very personal and it most likely won’t be anything new to my new tutors, in fact everyone around me had mentioned it however, I had to experience it myself to understand it.

Today, as students we were facilitated and encouraged on every level and more importantly, we also were reassured and encouraged that we were the centre of the whole learning and teaching experience of this course. As I have taught for more than 19 years in many different institutions such as Mary Ward Centre, London College of Fashion, University of Westminster and Central Saint Martins plus one-off international teaching situations – I haven’t been in this position for a long time and therefore, it felt almost overwhelming.

As a tutor I do exactly what our new tutors do, too, I give and listen all the time and the only people next to my closest family and the few friends left, who seem to matter in my life are my students and ex-students, especially in the role as a pathway leader because there is a lot of pastoral care involved. This is also the reason why I cannot appear vulnerable unless I use it as a learning and teaching tool in a measured manner.

Usually, I explain that I don’t teach instead I ‘guide’ the students which, as I learned today, is a recognised teaching and learning method called ‘facilitator’. In addition, I tend to not respect my teaching qualities very much because I lost the ‘discipline of noticing’ or do not know the terms or references for my teaching methods.

The final and most vital realisation for me today was that I am as a student the centre and it is about me which also means that it is about my creative practice not only about my teaching practice. Today there was a keen general interest in what we as students do next to our teaching practice.

Even though I am very aware of the fact that my creative practice should and does inform my teaching practice I was not used to such genuine interest in who I am as an artist. Hence, I kept my practice as a visual artist quite brief in my verbal presentation today. Having realised that I am the centre, I decided to boast on my blog and included a rather long biography – mainly as a reminder and reassurance for myself.

As my own creative practice seems an important part of this course, I further understood that there is the possibility to focus in the first instance on my creative practice rather than on my teaching practice for the active research project with the intention of eventually linking the two.

My Research:

Beautiful quote from today: “What itch do you want to scratch in your research”

The research “Part of the Furniture: Encountering People and Things in the Design Studio” of James Corazzo, Associate Professor of Art & Design, Sheffield Hallam University, reminded me of one of my projects called ‘Before A Fashion’ which I did in 2014.

ANZ drawing of Bronzino painting 2010
ANZ drawing of Bronzino painting 2010

Even though I knew vaguely what project I wanted to do I didn’t quite know where to start so I decided to utilise drawing as a thinking and stimulating process. Similar as Catherine Smith I went to the library to draw however, I decided to draw paintings by Mannerism artist Bronzino because I was always drawn to his paintings’ stylised aesthetic, fresh colours and layers of symbolism and narratives.

ANZ drawing of CSM Womenswear final year students at CharingX in 2010

‘Before A Fashion’ 2014

‘Before A Fashion’ is a short artists’ film exploring the uniquely performed relations between bodies, materials and state of creation only to be found among young people studying fashion design. It describes how ideas around ‘manner and style’, key terms defining fashion and embracing specific qualities such as the way that we stand, sit or move, are tightly intertwined with the entire design and making process.

The film originates from 5 years’ extensive observations of fashion design students, staff and learning methods at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, in form of endless photographs and drawings. It creates a different kind of storytelling through translating real experiences and gestures – a mix of clear procedures seemingly stemming from a former world and more intimate, instinctive gesticulation – into refined scenarios. Underlining this notion, the presented clothes have been designed to mimic distinct acts of performance by a recent Saint Martins fashion graduate and key-performer in the film.

ANZ drawing of CSM students 2011
Walking in circles during line-ups at CSM Kings Cross 2012, photo by ANZ
Walking in circles during line-ups at CSM Kings Cross 2012, photo by ANZ

Usually, the focus in the field of fashion and performance lies on the performance of the wearer and the specifically designed and worn garments. This new project includes the performance of the fashion makers and examines the interrelated performances of body, material and physical and psychological state of creation within the fashion design process as a whole.

Finally, regarding the title ‘Before A Fashion’ – ‘before’ relates to fashion students whom I want to portray within the film, which means their working and development before they ‘go into fashion’ and perhaps before they ‘become a fashion’. Also, it refers to my thought that perhaps before something is called ‘a fashion’ it is not ‘a fashion yet’ such as a dress which just has been completed and not been ‘outside’ the studio yet. 

Due to limited time, funding resources and lack of appropriate academic or intellectual support the project did not have the outcome I had originally intended. Having listened to James’ and Catherine’s presentation I am beginning to see the potential of this project and therefore, perhaps this is a project I could revisit.

Before A Fashion – story board

Drawing by ANZ
Drawing by ANZ
Drawing by ANZ
During filming ‘Before A Fashion’ at Back Hill 2014, photo by JAG
Photo by JAG
Photo by JAG

11th January 2023
by Anna-nicole Ziesche
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Introductory Workshop 11/01/23

  1. Sketch briefly your teaching context and other professional/creative identities (use images)
Futuro House, the futuristic abode designed by architect Matti Suuronen in the ’60s was brought to the roof terrace at Central Saint Martins College in 2017. I was able to book it for a portfolio crit with our 2nd year womenswear students who were extremely tired on the day or just enjoyed the comfortable chairs.

My name is Anna-Nicole Ziesche, I am the Pathway Leader for BA Fashion Design Womenswear at Central Saint Martins. I have done this job for 7 years but have been teaching on the same Pathway since 2003. I have got two daughters who are both now at secondary school and who are the reason why I am doing this PgCert only now.

BA graduate collection by one of my ex-students Frederik Tjaerandsen 2019. His Instagram followers went from a few thousand to 70000 over night.
Infinite Repetition (myself) 1999-2000

I graduated in BA and MA Fashion from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design University of the Arts London. My shift towards film and performance began in the last year of my MA Fashion when I made a film to be shown at the Truman Brewery, UK (2000).

At the time I developed the title ‘Infinite Repetition’ and stated that fashion is about collecting endless images to translate them into tangible garments only to translate the garments back into more endless images. I concluded that this process is not necessary anymore as a garment can just remain an image. This was a radical departure for me and marked a turning point in fashion communication practice because it utilized the medium of film to unveil the continuously evolving designs and shapes of garments (22 years ago).

Childhood Storage (myself) 2009

My interest has shifted over the years, and therefore, my more recent films convey the relationship of mind and dress and the performance of the body conditioned by dress physically and psychologically.

Exhibitions include:

The Triennial for Contemporary Art, Fashion and Design’, Hasselt, Belgium (2012); the International Film Festival Rotterdam, The Netherlands and the Kunstmuseum Wolfsburg, Germany (2011); the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rottterdam, The Netherlands (2009); the Museum of the Moving Image, New York, USA (2007); the Institute of Contemporary Arts, London, UK (2006); Kinnijoe Space Gallery, Hamburg, Germany and the Yale Centre for British Art, New Haven, USA (2002); the Kulturhuset, Stockholm, Sweden and the Modemuseum, Antwerp, Belgium (2001).

In addition my films have been shown in numerous international film festivals.

Awards and commissions include:

‘The Art of Fashion: Installing Allusions’ at Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rotterdam(2010); College Research Fund from London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London (2010, 2012)); Capture 4 Award of Arts Council England (2005); Merchant Taylor Award (2003); Artsadmin Bursary (2001); Deutsche Bank Pyramid Award (2000).

  1. Share something you learned about pedagogy and/or pedagogic research from the item you chose, and any questions it raised for you.

Ironically, despite my digital work and innovative thinking in the past I struggle the most with the rapid expansion of digital tools, processes, and outcomes such as 3DClo or more recently AI in my teaching and learning practice.

Consequently, I chose 2 pieces of writing from Spark which investigate digital technology within teaching and learning and I feel complemented each other. They were the following:

  • Vol 5 / Issue 1 (2022) pp. 42–55 Spark: UAL Creative Teaching and Learning Journal

“Teaching the tangible, remotely: Fashion as Material Culture” by Clare Lomas, Head of Curriculum Development and Assessment and Maria Costantino, Lecturer in Cultural and Historical Studies, London College of Fashion

The Fashion as Material Culture project examines real, tangible objects with regards to its changing meaning and value and its historical and cultural context etc..- something I very much relate to in my own practice. The article specifically analysed the implications when being unexpectedly obliged to teach such project online during Covid’s lockdowns.

  • Vol. 3 No. 2 (2018) pp. 150-160 Spark: UAL Creative Teaching and Learning Journal

“Case Studies – Works of heart: Revisiting creativity and innovation through maker pedagogies” Published 2018-10-31 – at a Canadian Faculty of Education

This article also looked at remote teaching and learning however, the content of the course was primarily digital. It discusses the contemporary maker movement and traces the student’s transformation from consumer of digital products to producer of innovative digital artefacts. This text very much embraced the digital realm in all its immense diversity and importantly was distinct by utilising the terms I know so well from the tangible creative world such as maker, making, makerspace, artefacts etc. to describe digital spaces, processes and outcomes.

The above plimsolls were an example from the Fashion as Material Culture project and the digital image stems from the second text from the Canadian Faculty of Education

While I resonated with many points in the first text, I felt that the second text challenged me more in that it directly compared or even treated as equal the digital and tangible world.

I settled on one word only because I use it frequently when teaching and therefore, it resonated with me most. It was ‘active learning’ which I found it in the following paragraph originating from the second piece of writing:

The 2017 Horizon report, which is published by the New Media Consortium and predicts the impact of emerging educational technologies and trends, identifies makerspaces as a key development in technology in primary and secondary education contexts over the next few years. The report argues that the: advent of makerspaces, [and other] classroom configurations that enable active learning, and the inclusion of coding and robotics are providing students with ample opportunities to create and experiment in ways that spur complex thinking. Students are already designing their own solutions to real-world challenges (Adams Becker et al., 2017, p.4). Makerspaces tend to include digital tools such as micro-computers, soft circuits, wearable tech, 3D printers, programmable robots, virtual reality and more.

My thoughts with regards to ‘active learning’ and digital processes:

Reading the article and specifically the term ‘active learning’ in context with digital processes prompted quite a few internal thought processes for me. I realised that I struggle to see the ‘active learning’ within digital processes sometimes and wonder how much people are active or how much they just ‘use or consume’ the given digital tools.

I realised that I tend to value an active tangible process more than a digital process (programming/coding is different) because I would argue that the learning when sewing fabric together or painting a canvas in real life requires more complex thinking than in the digital world, in addition more senses are involved.

Further, I would argue the emptier a ‘makerspace’ is and the fewer or less advanced tools the makerspace contains the more active the learning process becomes and the more problem solving is required however, a lot of ‘digital makerspaces’ are filled with very advanced and ‘pre-programmed’ tools.

When I do repetitive physical tasks I constantly, almost subconsciously, examine how I can do it better and faster however, I wonder whether we have the same drive of problem solving when undergoing digital repetitive processes. Physically it is less exhausting and therefore, not as crucial to find a better solution.

I realised further that I am continuously anxious that we are losing too much of our known abilities while not gaining the equal amount of new abilities when looking at tangible and digital learning processes. Further I fear that we don’t take enough time to analyse if those new digital tools are beneficial or what the best way is how and when to implement them into our learning processes.

QUESTIONS:

What does ‘active learning’ mean during a creative tangible process and what does it mean during a creative digital process? What are the differences and is one more beneficial to us as human beings than the other?

17th December 2022
by Anna-nicole Ziesche
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My first post for the PgCert Course

My name is Anna-Nicole Ziesche and I am the pathway leader for BA Fashion Design Womenswear at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, London. I mainly teach the 2nd and final year Womenswear.

Being on this PgCert course I am hoping to be inspired, refine and ‘rejuvenate’ my teaching and learning methods and be enabled to research and focus on a specific subject for the active research project which I then hopefully can utilise to advance my teaching and general practice.